Relocating the Fuel Pump.
Note: this guide is provided with no guarantees of any kind. If you decide to modify your motorcycle based on this article you assume the whole responsibility of your actions.

Here are the almost-step-by-step instructions on how to relocate the fuel pump for whatever reason. Some like the clean lines with nothing in front off the cylinders, myself I wanted the space to mount air horns.

There are three places to fit the pump, I shall show all three and you can make up your mind which one is for you.

To see a high-resolution (1024x768) picture of each stage just click on the thumbnail (it will open another browser window).
The original setup with the chrome cover removed. The first job is to cut the rubber pump and filter holder into separate pieces. These are used for all three setups.
Cut off the top half of the original rubber fuel-pump mount (the part that holds the filter), with a razor blade, so that only the large part that surrounded the pump remains.
Then trim off the pipe holders

Mid Mounted Pump.

This one I haven't tried. It doesn't need much in the way of materials and the electrics are close enough not to need modifying, however I was a bit worried about it being mounted so close to the engine. On a hot day would it overheat? When its mounted on its original bracket there is a thermal barrier of sorts this way its right next to the engine.
Diagram of the pump mounted over the carburettor.
The filter is fitted to the original bracket, this is cut down so the choke knob fits just underneath. If you want to get rid of the bracket this ones not for you.
The pump is zip-tied to the chassis between the cylinders right next to the carburettor. This fitting does not require much pipe and the original electrical connection will still fit.

High Mounted Pump.

I tried this one first so I know it fits. This method the pump is mounted high on the frame just under the ignition switch, it just fits and the electrics are still close enough without modifying. you need about a metre and a half of fuel pipe.

Mount the fuel pump to the top of the frame, right behind the ignition switch with zip-ties. The inlet/outlet of the pump face to the right, with the curved outlet pointing down and to the rear (toward the carburettor). position the hoses carefully bending them down and rearward toward the carburettor, use zip-ties to secure in position. There's just enough room within the petrol tank tunnel to allow easy installation and removal of the fuel tank.
The pipe to the carburettor has the original in-line fuel filter, midway between the carburettor and pump. And because the inlet to the pump isn't curved like the outlet, wrap the hose with a piece of the spring that Yamaha used on the stock setup to protect the bent section of the hose from collapsing or being kinked.
Mount the pump as far as possible to the left. Run the hose to the tank by passing the inlet line under the frame, between the cylinder heads and then up to the fuel tap.
As you can see in this picture the end of the pump lines up with the inboard side of the rubber tank mount on the left side of the frame.
As these bolts are close to the pipes I felt it safer to cut them flush with the nuts to prevent any abrasion, I haven't heard of any mishaps but there's always a first time. Make sure you zip-tie the pipes close to the pump so it keeps the bend nice and tight (hence the spring) and away from the tank.
The carburettor feed is simpler, with the hose from the outlet just running diagonally down to the front of the carb and then around to the carb inlet. A few zip-ties hold the hoses to the frame and everything fits nicely. The electrical connection doesn’t require any cutting or splicing, just run the wire from the pump back to the harness and plug it in.

Low Mounted Pump.

This is the one I went for after moving my alarm system, this is the installation that Barons supply the materials for if you buy the kit. The pump fits to the relay bracket behind the right side cover nicely out of the way. But this way uses a lot of pipe and the electrics have to be extended. You will need about three metres of pipe and some cable.
The pump nicely hidden away behind the relays. The pipes swing around the oil tank and come out any available crevice and turn towards the front of the bike. The only drawback is the pipes tend to get in the way of the oil tank filler cap as they loop over the top, but as this is not used that much its no hardship.
To extend the electrics I split the loom and pulled the feed back, doing it this way just required extending the negative cable as this is jointed about mid point along the frame. I merely cut the cable and added a piece by soldering in a piece of cable the same length as the positive.
The relays bracket has to be removed and the relays moved to the outside this then leaves a fork that the rubber pump bracket pushes over as if it were made for it.
The fuel filter is zip-tied to the frame and the pipe turns under the frame and around to the fuel tap. You may also notice that this way the filter is before the pump like the stock system, the high mounted way the filter is after the pump because there's not enough room.
This picture shows the relays and pump fitted, I later changed the relays around so the larger was to the front as shown in the other pictures. I also bent the larger relay fork out a bit to give the fuel pipe a bit more room.